Depends upon whom you ask. The backstraps, “boneless loins”, “tenderloins” are found in the “saddle” or back of the deer, parallel to and on either side of the spinal column.
In the butchering process, they are easy to spot, and easy to remove with a little care and a very sharp knife. Preferably one with a small, short blade. You’re not digging to China here and every bit you waste, you don’t get to eat. The best backstraps are taken from a two to three year old deer, preferably a doe. This is why I do not hunt antlers. No matter how I cook antlers, they are always tasteless and . . .”gamey”
Its funny, but many people who will drool over the idea of filet mignon, will turn up their noses in disdain over the idea of eating this succulent morsel. “Deer? Its too gamy, only neanderthals eat deer.” Us neanderthals know better and in a contest for flavor between filet mignon and properly prepared backstrap, the backstrap wins hands down, every time. And, gamy? If you are eating truly strong, unpleasant tasting venison, somebody did not do their job right in harvesting, butchering and preparing the meat.
And like so many other things, how you prepare the backstrap is a matter of taste, choice, and personal preference. Everyone who understands just how choice this cut of meat is, will have their own favorite recipe. Here are some, shared with me by lifelong friends. There are hundreds more. Its not about which one is “best”. Do what you will.
I met my friend Bill in the third grade. We have been friends all our lives. He is also the best looking 60 year old man I know. That, of course, grates on me a bit, but what the hell, I’m a better pistol shot, so its an even trade.
Bill starts his backstrap preparation by removing the whitish membrane from the meat. The whitish membrane is not food. It does provide an off taste. Maybe this is where the “gamey” comes in for the uninitiated? Anyway, Bill partially slices his back straps down the middle lengthwise, leaving them an intact piece of meat. He then stuffs the straps with smoked oysters and wraps the entire backstrap with strips of a good bacon, held in place with toothpicks. Bill recommends that the bacon be boiled first. This helps to remove a lot of the fat that will cause grill flame ups, but does not crisp the bacon, or remove the good bacon flavor that will be imparted to the backstrap. He moves the whole, bacon-wrapped loin to a hot grill. He cooks the straps for about six minutes, then turns them and repeats the six minute cook, so that the meat is medium rare.
This is an important point. A lot of venison is ruined by people who overcook it. Venison is at its very best when served medium rare. You can cook it longer, but you will not enjoy it as much. It has very little fat content, as opposed to the overfed, hormone injected beef we eat today. It will become tough and nasty tasting if over-cooked. Properly butchered wild deer is also not as susceptible to pathogenic contamination as beef processed in a salugherhouse. I didn't say it, food experts say it.
When its done, Bill slices the strap into medallions for serving. This makes Bill very popular with friends and relatives. Having tried his recipe, I know why.
“Oh, oysters, oh barf! Oh wretch” Oysters, who could eat things like that??!!”
Take it easy, cupcake. A lot of people eat them, love them, savor them and, in my case, do a special little dance before savoring them on the halfshell raw, with a good Scotch or Irish whiskey chaser. When I do this in my favorite oyster bar, some people glance at me and whisper to each other. I could give a rat’s ass, as is usually the case.
But if you’re just not into oysters, then try Jack’s version. Jack was a childhood playmate. He was better at stuff than I was, but he was always the guy who tried to help you get better. I have a lot of respect for Jack. And he has been married to my friend and classmate Libby for like ever, and she pretty much likes him too, so there you go.
Jack coats his backstraps with olive oil (to do this right, you wash your hands thoroughly and then massage the olive oil into the strap with your nice, clean hands). He adds a little salt, which sticks to the olive oil, (see, he had a plan from the start). Then he coats the strap heavily with 3 tablespoons of assorted peppercorns and 3 tablespoons of mustard seed, that he has ground with a coffee grinder (which is an idea I had never thought of - see he is still helping me get better at stuff). While this product sits humming to itself, he prepares a reduction of beef broth and heavy cream, finished with 1 tablespoon of Dijon mustard and 2 tablespoons of butter. He grills the backstrap to medium rare, slices it into medallions and serves it, topping the medallions with a little of the cream sauce. Libby reports it is “perfect every time.”
My variation on this theme is simply that while the backstrap is coated, (I use onion powder, garlic salt and some ground peppercorn), and sitting around contemplating its navel, I make a reduction of pinot noir, uncooked cherries and rosemary. Watch the reduction. Watched pots do boil. One second it will be “not ready” and a few seconds later, it will be “Oh hell where did it all go??!!” Cover that and let it cool a bit while you grill your strap, medium rare. Slice medallions and let people use whatever amount of the reduction sauce they desire.
All three of these methods serve up a wonderful venison meal. If you like your recipe better, that’s fine. Backstrap is the choicest cut of meat on a deer. If they made deer that were all backstrap, I would hunt them with a club if I had to.
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