August 13, 2011

Vidalia Peach Salsa

Football season is right around the corner, which means snacks for armchair QB's. This one doesn' take long and can be done the day before.  Its actually better that way.

3 ripe fresh peaches

1 vidalia onion
1 red or yellow pepper, finely chopped
1 can fire roasted tomato
1 ear of sweet corn, nuked for 3 minutes wrapped in wet paper towel
1/4 - 3/4 cup of strained sweet chili sauce (if you want it with a little spicy heat - or experiment with other sauces, this ain't rocket science . . . . . . . .)
***you can add some chopped jalapeno to if your victims like a little more fire***
1/4 cup sugar
1-2 Tablespoons of lemon juice
1 Tablespoon of butter

Pit and dice the peaches (smaller chunks are better for chip dipping)
Dice 1/2- 3/4 cup onion (to avoid tears, use a sharp knife, dipped in cold water.  Slice the onion, don't crush it, move chopped onion to covered bowl quickly)

Add butter to a large frying pan and melt it over medium high heat. Add the onion and heat for about a minute. Sprinkle 1/2 of the sugar over the onions, and cook for another 2 minutes to mellow the onion and absorb some of the sweetness of the sugar.  Add the finely chopped pepper.

Slice corn from cob.

Add the peaches, and tomato, corn and lemon juice and stir.

With a small strainer pour about 1/4 cup of chili sauce into the strainer and use a spoon to work the liquid through the strainer leaving the chili flakes in the strainer.

Stir the sauce slowly into mixture and taste frequently until you have it where you want it.

Cool, and refrigerate in sealed container to let the flavors blend.

Serve with plenty of chips, its hard to stop munching on this stuff.

June 23, 2011

Maple Salad Dressing

Our friend John is a skilled maple syrup cook.  In addition to his hunting and dog training hobbies, he organizes an annual maple syrup festival.  He has shared his syrup with us and its very, very good.  He also shared his wife, Linda's, Minnesota maple salad dressing.  Those who have tried this say its fantastic.

1/4 cup pure maple syrup (do not use a corn syrup blended version)
1/2 cup oil
3 tablespoons of red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon stone ground mustard
salt & pepper to taste.
Add toasted sesame seeds to dressing before serving.

Go make a salad to try this on.  You won't be sorry.

April 3, 2011

Vension backstrap variations on a theme

Venison backstraps. What are they? Where do they come from? How do you cook them?

Depends upon whom you ask. The backstraps, “boneless loins”, “tenderloins” are found in the “saddle” or back of the deer, parallel to and on either side of the spinal column.



In the butchering process, they are easy to spot, and easy to remove with a little care and a very sharp knife. Preferably one with a small, short blade. You’re not digging to China here and every bit you waste, you don’t get to eat. The best backstraps are taken from a two to three year old deer, preferably a doe. This is why I do not hunt antlers. No matter how I cook antlers, they are always tasteless and . . .”gamey”

Its funny, but many people who will drool over the idea of filet mignon, will turn up their noses in disdain over the idea of eating this succulent morsel. “Deer? Its too gamy, only neanderthals eat deer.” Us neanderthals know better and in a contest for flavor between filet mignon and properly prepared backstrap, the backstrap wins hands down, every time. And, gamy? If you are eating truly strong, unpleasant tasting venison, somebody did not do their job right in harvesting, butchering and preparing the meat.

And like so many other things, how you prepare the backstrap is a matter of taste, choice, and personal preference. Everyone who understands just how choice this cut of meat is, will have their own favorite recipe. Here are some, shared with me by lifelong friends. There are hundreds more. Its not about which one is “best”. Do what you will.

I met my friend Bill in the third grade. We have been friends all our lives. He is also the best looking 60 year old man I know. That, of course, grates on me a bit, but what the hell, I’m a better pistol shot, so its an even trade.

Bill starts his backstrap preparation by removing the whitish membrane from the meat. The whitish membrane is not food. It does provide an off taste. Maybe this is where the “gamey” comes in for the uninitiated? Anyway, Bill partially slices his back straps down the middle lengthwise, leaving them an intact piece of meat. He then stuffs the straps with smoked oysters and wraps the entire backstrap with strips of a good bacon, held in place with toothpicks. Bill recommends that the bacon be boiled first. This helps to remove a lot of the fat that will cause grill flame ups, but does not crisp the bacon, or remove the good bacon flavor that will be imparted to the backstrap. He moves the whole, bacon-wrapped loin to a hot grill. He cooks the straps for about six minutes, then turns them and repeats the six minute cook, so that the meat is medium rare.

This is an important point. A lot of venison is ruined by people who overcook it. Venison is at its very best when served medium rare. You can cook it longer, but you will not enjoy it as much. It has very little fat content, as opposed to the overfed, hormone injected beef we eat today. It will become tough and nasty tasting if over-cooked.  Properly butchered wild deer is also not as susceptible to pathogenic contamination as beef processed in a salugherhouse.  I didn't say it, food experts say it.

When its done, Bill slices the strap into medallions for serving. This makes Bill very popular with friends and relatives. Having tried his recipe, I know why.

“Oh, oysters, oh barf! Oh wretch” Oysters, who could eat things like that??!!”

Take it easy, cupcake. A lot of people eat them, love them, savor them and, in my case, do a special little dance before savoring them on the halfshell raw, with a good Scotch or Irish whiskey chaser. When I do this in my favorite oyster bar, some people glance at me and whisper to each other. I could give a rat’s ass, as is usually the case.

But if you’re just not into oysters, then try Jack’s version. Jack was a childhood playmate. He was better at stuff than I was, but he was always the guy who tried to help you get better. I have a lot of respect for Jack. And he has been married to my friend and classmate Libby for like ever, and she pretty much likes him too, so there you go.

Jack coats his backstraps with olive oil (to do this right, you wash your hands thoroughly and then massage the olive oil into the strap with your nice, clean hands). He adds a little salt, which sticks to the olive oil, (see, he had a plan from the start). Then he coats the strap heavily with 3 tablespoons of assorted peppercorns and 3 tablespoons of mustard seed, that he has ground with a coffee grinder (which is an idea I had never thought of - see he is still helping me get better at stuff). While this product sits humming to itself, he prepares a reduction of beef broth and heavy cream, finished with 1 tablespoon of Dijon mustard and 2 tablespoons of butter. He grills the backstrap to medium rare, slices it into medallions and serves it, topping the medallions with a little of the cream sauce. Libby reports it is “perfect every time.”

My variation on this theme is simply that while the backstrap is coated, (I use onion powder, garlic salt and some ground peppercorn), and sitting around contemplating its navel, I make a reduction of pinot noir, uncooked cherries and rosemary. Watch the reduction. Watched pots do boil. One second it will be “not ready” and a few seconds later, it will be “Oh hell where did it all go??!!” Cover that and let it cool a bit while you grill your strap, medium rare. Slice medallions and let people use whatever amount of the reduction sauce they desire.

All three of these methods serve up a wonderful venison meal. If you like your recipe better, that’s fine. Backstrap is the choicest cut of meat on a deer. If they made deer that were all backstrap, I would hunt them with a club if I had to.

November 26, 2010

Yam Bake

This is from Kathy, a friend from high school back in Nebraska, who got it from her friend, Josie.

Okay, so I grew up in Nebraska, thinking yams were sweet potatos.  First time I actually saw a sweet potato, I thought, "what the hell is that skinny yellow thing?  "Sweet potato?  Oh no its not!  This is a sweet potato, big plump, dark brown, tasty orange flesh . . ."  Wrong, as it turns out, that was a yam.  Or so they said . . . .

So, what's the difference, you ask.  Ha, glad you did.

Yams, it turns out are closely related to lilies and grasses. Native to Africa and Asia, yams vary in size from that of a small potato to a record 130 pounds (as of 1999). There are over 600 varieties of yams and 95% of these crops are grown in Africa. Compared to sweet potatoes, yams are starchier and drier. 3 cups canned Sweet Potatos/Yams or 4 fresh ones

Sweet Potatoes on the other hand are members of the morning glory family, "Convolvulacea". (I've tried to say that 3 times now, it gets caught in my throat and makes me gag) The skin color can range from white to yellow, red, purple or brown. The flesh also ranges in color from white to yellow, orange, or orange-red. Sweet potato varieties are classified as either ‘firm’ or ‘soft’. When cooked, those in the ‘firm’ category remain firm, while ‘soft’ varieties become soft and moist.

But here is the kicker, it is the ‘soft’ varieties of sweet potatos that are often labeled as yams in the United States.  That's because firm varieties of sweet potatoes were produced before soft varieties. When soft varieties were first grown commercially, there was a need to differentiate between the two. African slaves had already been calling the ‘soft’ sweet potatoes ‘yams’ because they resembled the yams in Africa. Thus, ‘soft’ sweet potatoes were referred to as ‘yams’ to distinguish them from the ‘firm’ varieties.

Today the U.S. Department of Agriculture requires labels with the term ‘yam’ to be accompanied by the term ‘sweet potato.’ Unless you specifically search for yams, which are usually found in an international market, you are probably eating sweet potatoes!

I was right all along, and didn't know it.  Story of my life.
So, now that you know, try this one.



1/2 cup sugar


1/2 cup butter


2 eggs beaten


1 tsp Vanilla


1/3 cup milk


Boil (if you use fresh yams) - mash and mix in the rest of the ingredients.
**For those of you who would rather nuke, than boil, wash the skins, cut off the ends, prick with a knife in a few spots, then try 6 minutess on high, and follow with 4 minutes.

Same difference, less energy.

Pour into 9x13 pan.


ADD TOPPING:


1/3 cup melted butter


1 cup light Brown Sugar


1/2 cup flour


1 cup pecans


Mix together - will be crumbly. Sprinkle on the taters.


Bake 25 minutes at 350
 
When serving this big hit, be sure to encourage some sucker to ask about the difference between yams and sweet potatos.  Sit back and lay it on 'em.  Its what holiday feasts are for.

July 3, 2010

The Challenge Pizza

The challenge. Boo called at 5:30, tired hungry, “I’m in a mood for pizza, can you fix something?” Yes, I can. But she would be home in an hour.

So, I used the flatbread pizza dough recipe I posted here in June, 2009 (Can Real Men Make Pizza?) With a little variation.

I proofed the yeast by adding 2 1/4 teaspoons of dry active yeast to 1/4 cup slightly warm water. Then I added a teaspoon of sugar and 2 tablespoons of olive oil. While that began to proof, I tossed two cups of all purpose flour into the bread maker with another tablespoon of olive oil, two tablespoons of honey and a ½ teaspoon of salt. The yeast mixture foamed up within about 7-8 minutes and I dumped it into the breadmaker, punched the “dough” button and walked away.

While the dough was working, I made a pizza sauce, using one 6 oz. can of tomato paste and 6 oz. of water, 3 tablespoons of grated Parmesan cheese, 1 teaspoon garlic powder (you can also use minced garlic - I was out), 1 teaspoon of onion powder, 1/4 teaspoons each of Basil, Marjoram and Oregano, and salt and pepper to taste. Some people will added red pepper flakes to this, for a little extra heat. I don’t, but whatever floats your boat.

Stir this up over medium heat. If it boils, it will spit, so cover your pot. When its nice and hot all the way through, take it off the heat and let it sit covered, to blend up the flavors, while you work out your dough.

I then pulled the dough from the breadmaker.  It was smooth and elastic, and maybe a bit sticky. I put it in a bowl, covered with a kitchen towel to let it rise, while I got busy on toppings.

Browned ground beef, sliced black olives and mushrooms, chopped roasted red peppers and Vidalia onion. I thought about ham and pineapple, but Boo likes beef-topped pizzas better, so do whatever you like.

When the toppings were ready, I set the oven to 400 F. and sprinkled some flour on the counter top. I dumped the dough, which had risen to roughly twice its original size, out onto the flour and rolled it around gently so that it picked up the flour and lost the surface stickiness. Then I pushed it out a bit into a roughly circular shape and got my hands under it, palms down, using the backs of my hands and the weight of the dough to gently stretch the dough.

I can toss pizza dough pretty well, but this is not a kneaded dough, and you can beat it up and tear it pretty easily, which is not the objective here. When it is stretched out to about the thickness you want, move it to your pizza stone and support it on the stone while shaping it out.

Then I spread the pizza sauce (leave yourself about an uncovered inch all around the outside edge) and the ground beef on the dough and popped it into the oven for 5 minutes at 400 F. Then I pulled it, added the other prepared toppings, reducing the heat to 350 for about another 5-6 minutes. That exposed edge is now rising and starting to firm up to the touch.  When it starts to brown slightly, you're done.

Then I bumped the oven back up to 400 F. and spread my pizza cheese over the toppings. Back in the oven for about 5-6 minutes and pulled it just as Boo walked through the door.

The sauce is tangy, and only slightly sweet and the flatbread crust is crunchy at first, but then nice and chewy. Not working out on the dough keeps it from toughening up during the bake.

Start to finish. 1 hour. Enjoy.

June 6, 2010

Put bacon in my what???

Okay, this wasn’t where I intended to go this morning, but on the way to a study of regional barbecue sauce styles, I got waylaid by bacon-infused (baconed) bourbon. This is Americana to the “Nth” degree, so I figured what the hell?

Why would a person do that?!! Bacon is bad!! Bourbon is alcohol, and its bad, bad, bad!! Let’s go have a tofu mocha and go for a jog. . . . Good, now they’re gone, and the rest of us adults, who are not deluding ourselves into thinking we’re gonna live forever, can talk. Apparently the idea is old. People have been infusing alcohol with fruits and all manner of things for centuries. It probably went along the lines of “Hmmmm, bacon is good. Bourbon is good. Hey, dude, you ever put bacon in your bourbon???”

The “Benton’s Old Fashioned” has become all the rage in the trendiest bars from San Francisco, to the Big Apple, and on to London, and Tokyo. Reportedly, asking for one in Edinborough can get your ass kicked, but all the bartenders there know how to make one anyway. Scots are loyal bastards, and they will not forgive America for bourbon any time soon. They’re also a lot tougher than most of us, so while there, keep your mouth shut and enjoy the single malts.

But elsewhere, the bacon does add a really nice smokey essence to a good bourbon. So, maybe we should start with what is a good bourbon. I did a little bourbon history lesson on this blog in June, 2009, when I put up the recipe for bourbon cake. Seven of the guys who laughed at me, later tried the bourbon cake and now they are making their own. (I’m just sayin’ . . .) However, since then, people have opined on occasion about bourbons left off the list, so at the end of this article, I will add some of their suggestions.

Once you make your bourbon selection, plan on adding one ounce of liquid bacon fat, rendered from a really good, smoky bacon, to 750 ml of bourbon, in a big wide mouth glass jar. You want the bacon fat cool, but not starting to solidify. Then seal it up and let it sit at room temperature for a minimum of four hours. It’s a taste thing, you’ll have to experiment to find the exact time on this. Ohhh, poor you!!!

Now put the jar in the freezer for at least two hours. The fat will congeal, and can easily be removed. You can run the bourbon through a strainer, and or a coffee filter to remove any residual fat solids.

So now you have baconed bourbon. What are ya gonna do with it? Well, from San Francisco to New Orleans, to New York, to London, to Tokyo and with a side trip to the Flagstaff House in Boulder, Colorado (one of the drop dead, hands down, best restaurants in the country), if you order a Benton’s Old Fashioned, this is what they are going to serve you.

2 oz baconed bourbon
1/4 oz maple syrup
2 dashes Angostura bitters

Stir with ice and pour into a cracked ice-filled rocks glass. Garnish with a twist of orange. In San Francisco, they often rim the glass with bits of sweet, smoky bacon, fried up crisp. Enjoy.

Good bourbons? Here is a consensus from a survey taken of professional bartenders from all over the country and reported in Outdoor Life magazine. Pick your poison and have a bacony good time.

Pappy Van Winkle 15 Year Old
Richer than molasses, this deep, dark bourbon checks in at an easy-sippin' 107 proof. If you want to respect your elders, there's no need to add water or ice. Just kick back, put your feet up and let Pappy do the rest.

Buffalo Trace
The flagship bourbon of the heralded Buffalo Trace distillery starts off with vanilla mint spiciness and mellows on the palate with a deep molasses finish. Keep a bottle of this in your liquor cabinet at all times and call it your 'house bourbon' and you'll be sure to impress your connoisseur friends.

Woodford Reserve
The official bourbon of the Breeder's Cup and Kentucky Derby, this 90.4 proof bourbon walks the line between complexity and mixability. You can enjoy its notes of corn, caramel and oak in a rocks glass by itself or you can use it in a mint julep or Manhattan.

Booker's
Aged six-to-eight years, this heavy duty bourbon is not for the light of tongue. At 121 proof it can be a little more intense than your average bourbon. But its notes of vanilla, tobacco and oak help you ride the long, intense finish.

Knob Creek
Sweet and rich, this 100-proof bourbon has hints of brown sugar and toasted nuts. It's aged nine years and was named National Whiskey Champion by Wine Enthusiast.

Eagle Rare 10 Year Old
This 90-proof well balanced bourbon is brimming with vanilla and toasted nut flavors which garnered it a double gold at the prestigious San Francisco spirits competition. If you're feeling flush, pick up a bottle of the even rarer Eagle Rare 17-year old.

Bulleit
Incorporating more rye into its mashbill than most other bourbons, Bulleit gives your palate an added spicy kick. The bottle that houses this 90-proof tipple was designed in tribute to the old-fashioned brown medicine flasks.

Maker's Mark
These distinctive wax-dipped bottles are like snowflakes-each one is different. But on the inside, each bottle contains the same smooth signature 90-proof bourbon that starts off with sweet corn and leather notes and sits on the palate with a long, rich caramel finish.

Wild Turkey Rare Breed
The Thunder Chicken got its name after a distillery executive used to bring this bourbon on turkey hunting trips. This 108 proof bourbon is a blend of six, eight and 12-year old barrels that gives it hints of citrus, caramel and sweet tobacco.

George T. Stagg
The grand daddy of all bourbons, this 140+ proof bourbon has been nicknamed 'Hazmat' because of its high alcohol content. Add a little water to this 15-year old and it will open up the coffee, citrus and oak flavors.

June 5, 2010

Cookie Science

Okay, so last night I was sitting in bed, munching on a bedtime cookie (yeah, like you’ve never done that . . . .)

And while enjoying the chewy little devil, I started thinking about the texture and why it was nice and chewy, instead of brittle and crunchy. (I think about stuff like this a lot, I don’t know why . . .).

So, I decided to spend some time studying the chemistry of cookies to see if I could unearth the answer to that question. Turns out it can be based on a number of variables, so I thought I would collect them and write them down.

Obviously, the ingredients are the primary factor. So, lets take a look at them individually.

First, we’ll talk about flour. The majority of cookie recipes use all-purpose or pastry flour. But bread flour, which has a high protein content, and cake flour, which is high in starch, both produce cookies that tend to keep their shape and not flatten out or “spread” in the baking process. This is because of the gluten in the bread flour and the absorbant starch in the cake flour, which act to produce a similar results.

Next, we’ll add fat. Fat has an important role in the spread of a cookie. All things being equal, the more fat you use, the flatter and crispier your cookie will be. Using less fat results in cookies that are puffier, or “cake-like”. The majority of cookies are made with either butter, margarine or shortening. Whipped spreads should not be used for baking. (I know, they’re “healthier”, but they are primarily whipped water, will reduce to nothing in the baking process and end up tasting like crap. If you have to sit and worry about every morsel of butter that goes into your system, you have bigger issues than butter and you shouldn’t be baking cookies anyway.)

Of the three, shortening and margarine tend to be more temperature stable, and will help cookies keep their original unbaked shapes. Butter melts at right about 99 degrees fahrenheit –which is a much lower temperature than the melting point of other solid fats--resulting in a “melt-in-your-mouth” burst of flavor (because that just happens to be your own body temperature, give or take a few tenths of a degree).

But, cookies made with butter tend to spread out. Since butter is an essential ingredient for some cookies, such as shortbreads, if they are not holding their shape, you should lower the amount of butter in the recipe. You can also get the same result by lowering the, amount of sugar, or baking soda in the recipe.

Then there are baking powder and baking soda to consider. Baking powder and baking soda are used as levening agents in cookies. (You can also use stiffly beaten egg whites in some delicate cookies, but you have to blend it in gently so you don’t ’break” the foam.) Baking soda is actually bicarbonate of soda. Baking powder is a combination of bicarbonate of soda and cream of tartar. Why? Because Cream of tartar is acidic and sometimes you want your dough to be acidic. Baking soda neutralizes the acidity of the dough, which is what allows the cookies to brown in the oven. When you use baking powder, it does not reduce the acidity in the dough. So the cookies will turn out to be puffier and they will not brown as much.

Okay, now we’ll add the sugar. Sugar liquefies during the baking process. But the type you use will alter the product coming out of the oven. White sugar makes a crisper cookie than brown sugar or honey. Cookies made from brown sugar will absorb moisture after baking, helping to ensure that they stay chewy. Most chocolate chip cookie recipes contain both brown and white sugars. If you lower the amount of sugar called for in a cookie recipe, the final baked cookie will be puffier than its high-sugar counterpart.

You add eggs (or other liquids) to the cookie dough to act as an agent to bind the dry ingredients.. Liquids can either cause cookies to puff up or spread. If you use egg , you end up with a puffy, cake-like texture. If you use a tablespoon or two of water or other liquid instead of egg, it helps the cookies spread into flatter and crisper rounds. If you use only egg yolks to bind the dough, you end up with a rich tasting cookie with a generally crisper texture. If you use only egg whites, you end up with a cookie that is dry and cakey. You can alter this by adding extra sugar, but it ends up being a really sweet cookie, like a macaroon.

You can also alter your finished product by the mechanical processes you use.

Mixing

Mixing is important to the finished product. Some recipes call for you to cream the fat and sugars together until light-colored and fluffy. Other cookies call for almost a sandy texture, which you accomplish by cutting the fat into the flour. If you over-mix, you will add too much air into the dough. When that goes away in the baking process you end up with a big, flat cookie. The best route is to follow the recipe instructions. Or if you’re winging it, like I do, make sure that once you get all your dry and wet ingredients together, mix until just combined.

Temperature

Unless the recipe says differently, ingredients should be at room temperature before mixing. However, once its mixed, cookie dough can be chilled before baking so it holds its shape better. Rolled and cut-out cookies should be refrigerated before baking for sharper, clearer edges. Drop cookies, such as chocolate chip or oatmeal cookies, can be at room temperature before baking; the spoonfuls of dough will spread and flatten out to the desired result.

Equipment and Baking

Different baking sheets and ovens produce different results. Thin baking sheets convey to much heat and the cookie bottoms will brown too fast. Special insulated baking sheets allow air movement and help cookies bake much more evenly. Jellyroll pans (semi-thick rimmed baking sheets) are a really good baking tool. No matter which type you use. You have the choice of greasing the baking surface, using parchment paper or a nonstick pan liner. Each of these last two choices makes cookie removal and clean-up really easy.

Baking Temperature

Follow the recipe guidelines for baking temps. But cookies are usually baked in at a medium temperature of 350 degrees F. And only for eight to twelve minutes, depending on the size of the cookie. Then if you wish to enjoy chewy cookies, allow them to cool on the pan for three to five before transferring to a cooling rack. For crispier cookies, let them cool for only one minute on the baking sheet before transferring to a wire rack.

Hope this helps you understand more about cookie science. Now, go make some cookies.